Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) is a policy approach that aims to ensure producers pay the full net costs associated with their products and packaging throughout their lifecycle. In the UK, EPR is currently being implemented for Packaging, with WEEE and Batteries set to follow in the coming years. Textile waste is one of 5 other waste streams that the UK government have identified as a focus area for future implementation of the EPR system. 

Textile waste is a direct result of our current linear economic system. Globally, more than 80% of textiles are not recycled. Instead, they are either incinerated, end up in landfill, or pollute the environment. We need a separate textile collection system on a large scale to properly manage the collection of textile waste and cover the net cost associated with managing all discarded textiles. EPR is a critical policy approach to help establish this system, prolong the life of textiles, and contribute to a circular economy. 

EPR for the textiles is highly sought after, with the fashion industry alone estimated to be responsible for up to 10% of global carbon dioxide emissions. Much of this is caused by the increasing demand for 'fast fashion' worldwide. ‘Fast fashion’ involves the production of clothing that is designed to respond to ever-changing consumer tastes and trends as quickly as possible. This typically involves large-scale production of low-cost, low-quality clothing made from cheap synthetic fibres to keep production costs down. This linear business model means products are not always designed to last and are often difficult to recycle. In the UK, 23 million textile items are sent to landfill or incinerated each year, generating nearly 750,000 tonnes of CO2 emissions. 

An EPR scheme for textiles will hold companies accountable for the costs associated with separate collection, sorting, and recycling of textiles. The fees that producers pay will be determined through "eco-modulation," which means they will be adjusted based on the environmental performance of textiles they place on the market. With producers becoming solely responsible for the collection costs in managing textile waste, they are incentivised to modify their products to be more environmentally friendly and easily recyclable. 

When a product's lifecycle is extended, it helps create a more sustainable future by reducing the number of products that end up as textile waste in landfill or incineration. Repairing, refurbishing, and reusing textiles gives them a new lease on life, ensuring that they continue to circulate in the economy. 

In terms of the EPR status in the UK, the 2018 waste/resources strategy stated that by the end of 2025 the UK government should have reviewed and consulted on all EPR measures for up to five new waste streams, including Textiles, Bulky waste, Construction materials, Vehicle tyres, and Fishing equipment. However, there is set to be a delay in the implementation of this process as the UK government stated that progress needs to be made by assessing new EPR strategies for packaging before introducing EPR for new waste streams like textiles. 

Beyondly works to stay updated on the latest developments in EPR strategies that have yet to be implemented in the UK and internationally. This work enables Beyondly to assist their customers in preparing for these changes, including the potential introduction of EPR for textiles. 

If you have any questions about EPR for textiles, please contact our team at solutions@beyond.ly

Author: Martha North, Settle College